Cuckmere Haven, Seven Sisters Cliffs, Proper Afternoon Tea, & Downton Abbey

Thursday, May 26

I knew one of the first things I wanted to do was return to the Seven Sisters Cliffs. I was really looking forward to this day!

I visited there in 2019 and had to get back. It's the main reason I had Brighton as home base -- Seven Sisters is only a short train ride from there.

Originally I wanted to go on day 2 of this trip, but I needed to wait for the weather to clear up a bit. And I ended up having a decent day for it!

A forty minute train journey took me from Brighton to a seaside town called Seaford. No changes this time; just a direct train. I got my bearings in Seaford and used Google Maps to find the coast and, ultimately, the hiking route to a place called Cuckmere Haven, which has a beautiful view of the cliffs and a pathway to walk along the coast under the cliffs.

Once I found the shore, I could see what route I was to take. It was essentially right along the coast and started off with several narrow well-worn paths right near the beach, but as I got further on, I was wondering to myself if I was allowed to be walking where I was. I was ascending a hill that felt like (and might've been) a 45 degree angle. It was probably the most intense "climbing" I've ever done.

This is looking towards Seaford, down the huge hill I had just climbed. You cannot tell at all how steep this incline is, but it was dramatic! You can see the well-established walking paths, Seaford in the distance, and a golf course on the right.

There were chalk cliffs almost immediately in the hike. You can get so close to the edge. I'm always very uncomfortable with this! But obviously I got close enough to take that picture. 😂

Once off the beach, I walked for perhaps 20 minutes in a terrain with low grasses... and then the Sisters came into view and I smiled broadly and looked to the sky with gratitude. Here's the first glance...

And so imagine, if you will, the following song playing as you descend the hill to the cliffs. And maybe just let this next video play for the remainder of you reading this post.

Once I got a bit closer, I set up my little tripod to start a photo shoot.

A lot of these pictures look the same, but I couldn't stop haha.

After sufficiently taking photos and videos at this location, I continue walking a bit to where you can actually get down by the water.

These buildings are the coastguard cottages. According to a website about Cuckmere Haven, "officers based at the cottages would watch over the bay, combat smuggling, perform salvaging and lifesaving duties, and, during the World Wars, guard against invasion."

I walked down to the beach near the cliffs, but didn't go directly underneath the cliffs. I stayed a while, taking it all in. I heard a few other hikers nearby with American accents, so asked them where they were from -- two from Canada and one from Indiana.

Eventually -- reluctantly -- I turned around and headed back toward Seaford.

It's just basic landscape, but why is it so much more enchanting when it's the English countryside?

The sun was coming out a bit in this picture and the cliffs look so white!

I took a slightly different path back into Seaford that led me through weedy fields. The walk back really had main character energy. I found myself walking on the edge of the golf course that I mentioned earlier. It felt wrong to be walking on a golf course when people were playing, but a few other people walking even had dogs with them!

My timing was good for the train back to Brighton. It was fairly early by this point, perhaps 2:00 pm. Without any other plans for the day, I thought it would be a good day for afternoon tea! I researched where I could have it and came up with The Ivy, which is kind of an upscale chain in the UK. I made a reservation for 3:00 pm.

Afternoon tea is more than just tea. Certainly there is a whole pot of tea, but it also includes finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and jam, and a variety of pastries. It is a lot of food, very indulgent, and can take a while to consume. I've tried to have it at least once during my recent trips. Usually it's served only between 1:00 to 4:00ish, so you have to time your day right for it!

I was seated in a booth in the corner which was just perfect for me because I could observe the whole room. And the spread for this afternoon tea was beautiful.

It was such a pleasure to devour this afternoon tea!

After a while, I asked the waitress where the restroom was and she pointed me in the right direction, but also said something else I couldn't decipher. She had a thick accent -- not British; from some other European country. When I went down to the restroom, I figured out what she was saying: "Take your phone with you!" Because the bathroom was so gorgeous!

I did not have my phone with me for my initial visit to the restroom, so I went back down again with it in hand! The fanciest bathroom I think I've ever seen.

It was still pretty early at this point, so I looked up movie times and it worked out very well for me to see the newest Downton Abbey film. I was so happy that it was still in theaters for me to see it in England. I killed a little time at the library again, and then snuggled into the seat at the cinema. The movie was fantastic!

When I returned to my AirBnB after the movie, I was able to meet Bronwen (the other AirBnB host and Richard's wife). She invited me into their lounge to have a chat. She wanted to hear what I was up to and what the rest of my plan was for the trip. I mentioned the city of Bath and it really seems like all English love Bath. Bronwen went on about how Jane Austen lived there and wrote about the city. I knew a little bit about this, but I have never read the novels that are set there. Bronwen had me follow her upstairs into one of the private bedrooms where she had a bookcase, and she handed me a little red book. It was two novels by Jane Austen, Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. She said the book was from her school days and that she wouldn't read them again and that I could keep the book! I was so surprised and touched. Things like that are so meaningful to me. I told her I would always cherish the book. How sweet. 

This was an epic day that I will remember for a long time -- beautiful landscapes, beautiful food, wonderful movie, wonderful loo.

According to Google Maps, I walked a little over 8 miles this day! My feet did not hurt at all this trip, so I have to give a shoutout to Allbirds. They are definitely worth the money. I was also impressed with the $30 white shoes I took with me on this trip from Target (similar ones here). I didn't wear them on the super long-haul walking days, but still walked quite a bit in them. It's so nice to travel and not have shoe issues!