Beamish Open Air Museum & Prayer at Durham Cathedral
Miles walked yesterday: 7 on the dot
My original plan for yesterday was to visit the coastal town of Seaham, which is only 10 miles from Durham. I had looked up the train schedule the night before, but was glad I looked again in the morning, because the train I needed was cancelled and the next wasn't offered until much later in the day, which wouldn't have given me enough time to explore.
I wasn't sure what to do instead, so started to look at my plan for the next day, which was to go to the Beamish Open Air Museum. Getting there was a hassle, but I decided to go for it because what else did I have going on for the day? Nothing haha.
I walked to the train station because the first leg of travel to Beamish was by train (for about 8 minutes) to a town called Chester-le-Street. Once there, I walked to a bus station, and the bus took about 22 minutes to get to the museum. I was dropped off right at the entrance and went to buy a ticket. The older gentleman selling me the ticket tried to get me to buy a year pass, if I had a UK address. Precious man. I was given a map and off I went.
There were four sort of villages in this outdoor museum, all set apart by about a 10 minute walk. The first village I visited was the 1820s farming village that had a farmhouse, church, and a mining section with mining equipment and a small train. The setting for this one was so pretty with rolling hills.
Next was the 1900 town, which had a proper main street with every kind of shop you could think of. It wasn't shops to buy souvenirs from, but shops that were set up to look like they would in 1900. The collections were incredible with authentic everything with employees dressed up in period clothing, in some cases doing the work of the shop. There was a bakery, a candy store, a cloth store with a seamstress, a grocer, and a mechanic. I think there were a few others that I missed. There were also offices--a solicitor (lawyer), a dentist, and a pianoforte / singing teacher's home.
The 1940s farming village was about an 8 minute walk up the road. This part was really about the animals, with sheep, chickens, baby chicks, horses, cows, and a pig. I talked to the cows a bit while they were eating lunch. It's funny how noisy it is to chew up hay.
At the end was the colliery town with little homes with gardens, a school, and a Methodist church. My favorite part was the school; I love seeing old school houses with the desks and chalkboards. Remember that everything is authentic, so the teaching materials on the desks and walls were super interesting.
This whole thing took about three hours and I was ready to get back home. I was in line to buy a small cat statue made of northeastern coal (it was a cat...made out of the coal that my ancestors mined...I couldn't not buy it) and I almost missed the bus back to Chester-le-Street. I made the trek to the train station for the onward journey to Durham, only to sit for about 25 minutes before I updated the app that said my train was cancelled. Fantastic. So then I was researching how to get back. Uber was too expensive; the best option was the bus, though inconvenient. I walked back to about where the bus dropped me off before, caught the right one to Durham, and made it back.
It really takes a lot of energy to look up bus schedules, get to the right stop, get on the right bus, and pay attention to when to get off. I was exhausted after this.
The plan next was to go to Evensong at Durham Cathedral at 5:15. The Evensong I've attended before was mostly sung choir and really enjoyable. I had about an hour before that was to start, so I sat at the café near the cathedral and had a coffee. What a lovely background for an afternoon drink. The time passes so quickly--before I knew it, it was time to walk across the green to get a spot for Evensong. I'm really grateful that the weather is back to good!
The cathedral was different inside from the first time I had visited. Instead of pews, they had laid down carpet and there were tons of fancy round tables and chairs, set up as if for a wedding reception. I asked at the info desk if there was still Evensong and they said there was Evening Prayer instead and to head down to the choir. Okay, that's fine. The area was sort of roped off, but I was let through when asked if I was there for prayer. As I neared the choir, I was greeted by a couple of priests who showed me where to sit. It was too late to turn back.
You guys, I was straight up sitting in the choir section of Durham Cathedral, with six other laypeople, five priests, and God...accidentally getting ready to say prayers on a Tuesday night. This is not at all what I thought I was going to be doing. I thought I'd be sitting at the back observing and able to leave at any minute if I wanted to because I'd be one of like at least 50 people and not noticed at all. Here I am--sitting in a choir pew, reading the odd numbered psalms, reciting the Lord's Prayer, listening to a couple of lessons, and kneeling in prayer.
Here are stock photos to give you a visual of where this absurdity was taking place.
I was sitting on the red velvet cushions. It was a hilariously serious ordeal. When the Nicene Creed was recited, I accidentally said I believe in the Holy Catholic Church! No, I don't! What am I saying?!
I did enjoy the prayer toward the end when the priest prayed for those working through the night (paramedics and nurses) and those preparing tomorrow's consumption of needed nourishment and material goods. When we were given a silent moment to pray, I did get teary thinking about how I was there in this place, experiencing this most random thing, and how grateful I am for this entire adventure.
The whole thing (luckily) was only 20 minutes long. I'm glad it happened even though I was really uncomfortable. It at least makes a good story!
Dinner time! I wanted to go to an authentic pub, so tracked down a place called Ye Old Elm Tree. Great name, right? It's nice to find places more off the beaten path and not in the city centre because it makes it seem like it's locals. I ordered an "elm burger" and a glass of chardonnay. The burger and chips were yummo.
An older man came in asking if this pub was always called this name. The barmaid pointed at an even older man sitting in a beer barrel chair (see below) and said, "He would know what this place was called 50 years ago." "It was still called Elm Tree."
The first man sat down next to the older man and they talked about what pubs still exist in Durham and which ones don't. The first man hadn't been to Durham in 50 years and when the older man asked if he was passing through for a sentimental visit, the first man said, "You could say that," and gave sort of a faraway look without elaborating. I couldn't help but wonder what brought him here. It was the sort of faraway look I'm giving in this photo.
My original plan for yesterday was to visit the coastal town of Seaham, which is only 10 miles from Durham. I had looked up the train schedule the night before, but was glad I looked again in the morning, because the train I needed was cancelled and the next wasn't offered until much later in the day, which wouldn't have given me enough time to explore.
I wasn't sure what to do instead, so started to look at my plan for the next day, which was to go to the Beamish Open Air Museum. Getting there was a hassle, but I decided to go for it because what else did I have going on for the day? Nothing haha.
I walked to the train station because the first leg of travel to Beamish was by train (for about 8 minutes) to a town called Chester-le-Street. Once there, I walked to a bus station, and the bus took about 22 minutes to get to the museum. I was dropped off right at the entrance and went to buy a ticket. The older gentleman selling me the ticket tried to get me to buy a year pass, if I had a UK address. Precious man. I was given a map and off I went.
There were four sort of villages in this outdoor museum, all set apart by about a 10 minute walk. The first village I visited was the 1820s farming village that had a farmhouse, church, and a mining section with mining equipment and a small train. The setting for this one was so pretty with rolling hills.
Next was the 1900 town, which had a proper main street with every kind of shop you could think of. It wasn't shops to buy souvenirs from, but shops that were set up to look like they would in 1900. The collections were incredible with authentic everything with employees dressed up in period clothing, in some cases doing the work of the shop. There was a bakery, a candy store, a cloth store with a seamstress, a grocer, and a mechanic. I think there were a few others that I missed. There were also offices--a solicitor (lawyer), a dentist, and a pianoforte / singing teacher's home.
The 1940s farming village was about an 8 minute walk up the road. This part was really about the animals, with sheep, chickens, baby chicks, horses, cows, and a pig. I talked to the cows a bit while they were eating lunch. It's funny how noisy it is to chew up hay.
At the end was the colliery town with little homes with gardens, a school, and a Methodist church. My favorite part was the school; I love seeing old school houses with the desks and chalkboards. Remember that everything is authentic, so the teaching materials on the desks and walls were super interesting.
This whole thing took about three hours and I was ready to get back home. I was in line to buy a small cat statue made of northeastern coal (it was a cat...made out of the coal that my ancestors mined...I couldn't not buy it) and I almost missed the bus back to Chester-le-Street. I made the trek to the train station for the onward journey to Durham, only to sit for about 25 minutes before I updated the app that said my train was cancelled. Fantastic. So then I was researching how to get back. Uber was too expensive; the best option was the bus, though inconvenient. I walked back to about where the bus dropped me off before, caught the right one to Durham, and made it back.
It really takes a lot of energy to look up bus schedules, get to the right stop, get on the right bus, and pay attention to when to get off. I was exhausted after this.
The plan next was to go to Evensong at Durham Cathedral at 5:15. The Evensong I've attended before was mostly sung choir and really enjoyable. I had about an hour before that was to start, so I sat at the café near the cathedral and had a coffee. What a lovely background for an afternoon drink. The time passes so quickly--before I knew it, it was time to walk across the green to get a spot for Evensong. I'm really grateful that the weather is back to good!
The cathedral was different inside from the first time I had visited. Instead of pews, they had laid down carpet and there were tons of fancy round tables and chairs, set up as if for a wedding reception. I asked at the info desk if there was still Evensong and they said there was Evening Prayer instead and to head down to the choir. Okay, that's fine. The area was sort of roped off, but I was let through when asked if I was there for prayer. As I neared the choir, I was greeted by a couple of priests who showed me where to sit. It was too late to turn back.
You guys, I was straight up sitting in the choir section of Durham Cathedral, with six other laypeople, five priests, and God...accidentally getting ready to say prayers on a Tuesday night. This is not at all what I thought I was going to be doing. I thought I'd be sitting at the back observing and able to leave at any minute if I wanted to because I'd be one of like at least 50 people and not noticed at all. Here I am--sitting in a choir pew, reading the odd numbered psalms, reciting the Lord's Prayer, listening to a couple of lessons, and kneeling in prayer.
Here are stock photos to give you a visual of where this absurdity was taking place.
I was sitting on the red velvet cushions. It was a hilariously serious ordeal. When the Nicene Creed was recited, I accidentally said I believe in the Holy Catholic Church! No, I don't! What am I saying?!
I did enjoy the prayer toward the end when the priest prayed for those working through the night (paramedics and nurses) and those preparing tomorrow's consumption of needed nourishment and material goods. When we were given a silent moment to pray, I did get teary thinking about how I was there in this place, experiencing this most random thing, and how grateful I am for this entire adventure.
The whole thing (luckily) was only 20 minutes long. I'm glad it happened even though I was really uncomfortable. It at least makes a good story!
Dinner time! I wanted to go to an authentic pub, so tracked down a place called Ye Old Elm Tree. Great name, right? It's nice to find places more off the beaten path and not in the city centre because it makes it seem like it's locals. I ordered an "elm burger" and a glass of chardonnay. The burger and chips were yummo.
An older man came in asking if this pub was always called this name. The barmaid pointed at an even older man sitting in a beer barrel chair (see below) and said, "He would know what this place was called 50 years ago." "It was still called Elm Tree."
The first man sat down next to the older man and they talked about what pubs still exist in Durham and which ones don't. The first man hadn't been to Durham in 50 years and when the older man asked if he was passing through for a sentimental visit, the first man said, "You could say that," and gave sort of a faraway look without elaborating. I couldn't help but wonder what brought him here. It was the sort of faraway look I'm giving in this photo.